Time taken: 1 hour.
Materials: 1.5m Charcoal linen, 0.25m wool batting, thread.
Tools: Scissors, pins, iron, ironing board, sewing machine.
Techniques: Basic sewing, applique.
Difficulty level: Easy.
So this bit is the belt that goes over the underskirt and under the tassets on Cullen’s outfit. It’s totally not a codpiece!
I suspect it’s there for two reasons:
a) to provide an aesthetically pleasing protective cover and disguise for his man-parts in case he tents his skirt *coff*
b) to provide a way of holding his full-torso breastplate against his lower body, by being attached to the bottom of it and fastening behind.
Anyway, this was really easy to make. First, using the templates I’d already prepared to cut out two pieces of the charcoal linen in the belt shape, and one of the wool batting. I chose to use that as an inner for this belt because the linen alone would lose its shape and not be as supportive as would be needed for its function. Also cut out, one each of the various shapes required to make the chevron pattern at the front, and a large square that I can cut on the bias to make the binding for the outside.
Next step – sew the large pieces into a sandwich with the batting as the middle layer, then press all the shapes into shape and pin them on:
Then sew around them. Realise that the bottom of the belt needs its binding on before the applique or it’ll look funny, unpick the bottom bit, add the binding, resew the applique. Press.
I couldn’t do any more on this until the breastplate was made – the binding at the top had to be somewhat shaped to attach to the bottom of the breastplate (which is not straight), and the fastenings at the back likewise needed to wait until I could accurately try the breastplate/jerkin on the model. So this went on the hanger behind the door with the underskirt, awaiting developments.